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I Found My Thrill ... In Charming Snow Hill
 | | Beth Rubin photo | | The River House Inn B&B |
A Maryland resident for 43 years, I thought I’d seen it all. But until recently Snow Hill had escaped my scrutiny. Always eager to visit new places (and get out of my office), I drove to see a friend who had moved from Annapolis to this southern Maryland hamlet in Worcester County. I turned south off Route 50 near Salisbury, bypassing the yellow brick road to Oz. A scant half an hour from where neon and boardwalk meet the sea, I discovered a gentle world where farms, fauna and friendly folks far outnumber traffic lights, high-rises and strip malls. With no room at my friend’s inn, I had made a reservation at the River House Inn, built on the shore of the Pocomoke River around the time of the Civil War. Peaches and Rosalie, the well-behaved standard poodles of innkeepers Larry and Suzanne Knudsen, welcomed me into the handsome interior, done by Suzanne in jewel tones and antiques. Larry showed me around the spacious Victorian and introduced me to a Virginia couple who had arrived by boat and tied up at the inn’s dock, at no extra charge. I dropped my bag and poked around the manse, with its large wrap-around porch and gingerbread fretwork. Out back, behind the pool and oversized gazebo with grille and large-screen TV, I strolled the two acres of shade trees, flowering shrubs and English-style gardens.The Miss Rai riverboat waited nearby for its next cruise passengers. My room was large by B&B standards—heck, by any standards: a four-poster bed fit for a queen (that would be moi), antique writing desk, comfy wing chair, fireplace, good reading material and fresh flowers. The large bathroom had an old-fashioned tub with shower, and thick, oversized towels. (And not a lick of Formica in sight!)
 | | Beth Rubin photo | | Pool at the River House Inn |
In addition to the guestrooms in the main house, the River House Inn has suites in out-buildings nearer the river, each with a whirlpool tub, fireplace, large-screen TV, DVD player, microwave and fridge. Larry offered me a cold drink and asked about my interest in exploring the area’s history, river, trails, museums, golf courses and beaches. It’s an easy drive to Ocean City, Assateague (for the surf, state park and to ogle the famous ponies and miniature deer) and Chincoteague. Visitors may choose one of the inn’s tailor-made packages, and the sky is the limit. Literally. Besides a plane ride, Larry says, “You can visit a working farm, go on a nature tour, fish, bike …” His voice trails off. “Whatever you want, we’ll do.” I opted for a kayak trip the following morning. One of Larry’s pet projects is DLITE (Delmarva Low Impact Tourism Experiences), headed by Dave Wilson of the Coastal Bays Program. In conjunction with DLITE, Larry arranges for visitors to bicycle on 250 miles of the county’s rural roads and/or kayak or canoe the Pocomoke and its tributaries, staying at inns along the way (www.inntours.com). The area in and around Snow Hill is a four-star rest stop for migratory songbirds and waterfowl on the Atlantic Flyway. In fact, more than 350 species are counted annually in Worcester County. I told Larry I’d return for the inn-to-inn experience when the thermometer fell below 85 and I had more time. I excused myself to meet my friend for lunch at the Court House Cafe where, over crabmeat quiche and salad, we caught up over endless glasses of iced tea. During an informal tour to walk off lunch, she regaled me with local history. I learned that Snow Hill had been settled in the mid-1600s and was a thriving port for many years. Worcester was carved from Somerset County, and Snow Hill became the county seat in 1742. Schooners enabled commerce on the peninsula until the advent of the steam engine. Steamboats carried bog iron to the Nassawango iron furnace up river until the rails linked Snow Hill to compass points farther afield. A fire gutted downtown in the late 1800s, but the town bounced back in the early decades of the 20th century. Today a growing community of natives (some 4th generation) and squatters from Washington, Baltimore and the eastern shore are joined by their love of the town’s history, Rockwellian charm and unhurried pace. Sated with food and history for the moment, I returned to the B&B to loll in the pool, which I had all to myself. How decadent and delicious, I thought, helping myself to a complimentary drink from the poolside fridge. Rejuvenated, I “hiked” the 2 blocks to the town center and browsed a handful of galleries and antiques shops. At Alice’s (“Books News Cards Toys Candy Gifts”) I perused the Wall Street Journal, bestsellers, stationery, greeting cards, gourmet chocolates and chatted with the proprietor. It was the kind of interchange that made me want to return. Around the corner, and rivaling galleries in locations with several times Snow Hill’s population, Bishop’s Stock carries a diverse collection of fine art, crafts and jewelry. The gallery features local artists and hosts juried shows throughout the year.
 | | Sandy Cohen | | Pocomoke River at Sunset |
About 5 o’clock I got into my buggy and moseyed down back roads to Chincoteague Bay where youngsters and oldsters crabbed side by side, sharing chicken necks. I counted 12 cars, and it was rush hour. On the way back I glimpsed more of Snow Hill’s 100 historic buildings, many dating from the 19th century. Most have been renovated, retaining the original design and character. After dinner with my friend and her family, fearing that I would nod off at the table, I excused myself to retire to the inn and my four-poster. Two paragraphs into a story, I was out cold. The next morning I had to make a difficult decision between gorging and kayaking. The chance to explore Nassawango Creek (off the Pocomoke) won. Suzanne gave me a rain check for breakfast —a feast, I had been told by repeat visitors. Feeling virtuous, I signed in at the Pocomoke River Canoe Co., offering canoe and kayak rentals; group, guided and self-guided trips; instruction and portage service, 7 days a week, April through October. Like everything else in Snow Hill, it is conveniently located, next to the drawbridge over the river. Driven to a put-in spot upriver, I passed the first hurtle—staying dry while getting into the kayak. A few minutes later the water felt surprisingly cool as it dripped from the paddles onto my arms and legs. Kayaking is a forgiving sport, infinitely attractive to those of us who are physically challenged. I figured the mosquitoes had partied hard the night before, as they left me alone. During my paddle I spotted herons, egrets, warblers, grackles and red-winged blackbirds and made a mental note to return in spring or fall. Passing through fields of lilies, past fragrant magnolias, bald cypresses and willows, their moss-draped branches teasing the water, the scene seemed more reminiscent of Louisiana than Maryland. A few hours later, regretful that I had to go back to the real world, I packed and headed home. Somewhere on Route 50 I re-entered earth’s atmosphere and began planning my next visit. Next time I might opt to stay in the River Inn’s converted 1890 carriage barn, plop into a porch rocker and catch the breezes off the water. A priority: kayaking inn-to-inn. I may fish or hop on a bicycle. Visit the Julia Purnell Museum (“the attic of Worcester County”) and Furnace Town Heritage Museum. Catch a musical review (a hoot, I am told, when the performers are in drag) in the Snow Hill Center for Arts and Entertainment. Write a bestseller set in a quaint southern Maryland town. I figure a month or two ought to do it. DIRECTIONS From Baltimore, Washington and Annapolis: Take Route 50 east across the Bay Bridge to 50/13 Salisbury bypass. Continue on 13 south to Route 12 south. Continue 16 miles to Snow Hill. From Ocean City: West on Route 50 to 113 south to turn-off for Snow Hill business district. RESOURCES Alice’s (open daily), 310 N. Washington St. 410-632-4050. Assateague Island National Seashore (Berlin, Md.). 410-641-3030. Bishop’s Stock (open Thurs.-Sun. and by appointment), 202 W. Green St. 410-632-3555. www.bishopsstock.com Court House Café, 104 W. Market St. (reopening in the fall with Mediterranean fare) DLITE (Delmarva Low Impact Tourism Experiences). 410-213-2297. www.delmarvalite.org Furnace Town Living Heritage Museum. Millville Rd. 410-632-2032. www.furnacetown.com Golf (courses/packages): www.ocgolf.com Mt. Zion One Room School Museum (open June through early September, 1-4pm). Ironshire St. 410-632-0669. Pocomoke River Canoe Company (canoe/kayak rentals and shuttles to put-in sites), 312 N. Washington St. 800-258-0905. www.atthebeach.com/amuse/md/canoe Pocomoke River State Park, Rte 113 (Worcester Highway). 410-632-2566. www.visitworcester.org River House Inn, 201 East Market St. 410-632-2722. www.riverhouseinn.com Snow Hill Center for Arts and Entertainment, 300 N. Washington St. 410-632-2532. Worcester County Tourism, 104 W. Market St., 410-632-3617. www.visitworcester.org
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Beth Rubin writes frequently on Maryland and the Chesapeake Bay.
Other Stories by Beth Rubin
Baltimore Charms the Kids
Vibrant Silver Spring lures visitors across the District line
Don't Ski? Other Ideas for Winter Fun
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