Mac Bogert

Diners hit the deck at Waterman's Crabhouse.

Rock Hall is more a place to be than to do. In the time it takes to crack a crab claw, pulse rates slow in this Kent County town that time blessedly forgot. Add scenic vistas, the Bay's freshest bounty (caught by third- and fourth-generation watermen) and quiet country lanes, and you have a recipe for relaxation and rejuvenation.

Established in 1707, the former port for travelers from Maryland's western shore and points south to Philadelphia and New York is a 20-minute drive beyond Chestertown via Route 20.

The town's connection with the Bay is hard to ignore. Commercial and recreational boats queue up at the harbor. Watermen unload bushels of Maryland blue crabs and prepare their boats for the next day's outing. Squawking gulls congregate on pilings while ospreys oversee the channel from their crude nests.

If you want to know bliss, park yourself at the Waterman's Crabhouse, a stone's throw from the water, with a pile of crabs, a crab-cake platter or bowl of steamed mussels. (Or all three.) On a sunny day, the water dazzles more brilliantly than any bauble by Tiffany's.

Rock Hall's rich, 300-plus-year history of crabbing, oystering and fishing is chronicled in the Waterman's Museum next to Haven Harbour Marina. Exhibits include historical photos and a re-created one-room shanty. Mounted on flat-bottom boats, such shanties provided wintertime shelter for past generations of watermen.

Visitors can get a taste of the Bay experience on a half- or full day of fishing or sightseeing. Charter and head boats depart from the harbor daily, in season. Queasy types enjoy the pancake flat, nearly traffic-free roads for bicycling. The sunsets from Ferry Park are, in a word, spectacular. Outside of town, Eastern Neck Island, a federal wildlife refuge south of Rock Hall at the mouth of the Chester River, is a must for bird watchers and nature lovers.

courtesy Waterman's Museum

Re-created waterman's shanty

It's easy to understand why artists, photographers, sculptors and writers have set up studios in and around Rock Hall. One doesn't have to look far for inspiration. Some of them open their doors to visitors by appointment and during special events.

Perhaps the best things to hit since crabs were introduced a few million years ago, is the Rock Hall Trolley which makes 35 stops at restaurants, lodgings and shops, and a complete loop between Rock Hall and Chestertown every hour during peak times. Service is daily in summer; Friday night and weekends in spring and fall.

Wander down Main Street with its handful of shops and taverns. Stop at Durding's for a shake, malted or sundae. The store, with its pressed tin ceiling and authentic soda fountain is more than 100 years old and sells souvenirs and gifts along with the cool, sweet stuff. (In August 2004, the price of an ice cream cone was a refreshing $1.28.)

If you want to stay over, consider the Swan Point Inn, overlooking Swan Creek, one of the prettiest anchorages on the entire Bay. Midweek rates are low. The restaurant, with deck seating in season, has won awards for its prime rib and offers tasty seafood selections too. The Black Duck Inn is a conveniently located waterfront bed and breakfast with an onsite cafe that continually garners praise from repeat visitors. Under Best Kept Secrets (and if you really want to get away), reserve the single crow's-nest room with Queen bed, TV and small refrigerator, at Haven Harbour Marina.

Kent County Tourism, 400 High St., Chestertown, 410-778-0416, www.kentcounty.com.

Rock Hall tourism, www.rockhallmd.com

Black Duck Inn, 2196 Chesapeake Ave., 410-639-2478.

Durding's Store, Main Street, corner of Sharp Street, 410-778-7957.

Haven Harbour Marina, 20880 Rock Hall Ave. (Route 20), 410-778-6697.

Rock Hall Trolley, 410-639-7996. www.rockhalltrolleys.com.

Swan Point Inn, Coleman Road and Rock Hall Ave. (Route 20), 410-639-2500.

Watermen's Museum, 20880 Rock Hall Ave. (Route 20), 410-778-6697.

Waterman's Crabhouse, Sharp Street and the harbor, 410-639-2261.

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